Author: Charlotte Seeling
1900-1909 - Paul Poiret - 1910-1919 - Milestones in Fashion: Pants - 1920-1929 - The little black dress - 1930-1939 - 1940-1949 - 1950-1959 - The cocktail dress - The wedding dress - 1960-1969 - The miniskirt - 1970-1979 - Anti-fashion - British fashion - 1980-1989 - Italian fashion - The supermodel - 1990-1999 - American fashion - A minimalist future.
This explosive narrative reveals for the first time the shocking hidden years of Coco Chanel's life: her collaboration with the Nazis in Paris, her affair with a master spy, and her work for the German military intelligence service and Himmler's SS. Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel was the high priestess of couture who created the look of the modern woman. By the 1920s she had amassed a fortune and went on to create an empire. But her life from 1941 to 1954 has long been shrouded in rumor and mystery, never clarified by Chanel or her many biographers. Hal Vaughan exposes the truth of her wartime collaboration and her long affair with the playboy Baron Hans Günther von Dincklage—who ran a spy ring and reported directly to Goebbels. Vaughan pieces together how Chanel became a Nazi agent, how she escaped arrest after the war and joined her lover in exile in Switzerland, and how—despite suspicions about her past—she was able to return to Paris at age seventy and rebuild the iconic House of Chanel.
The Model as Muse
Author: Harold Koda, Kohle Yohannan
Publisher: Metropolitan Museum of Art
"Model as Muse" explores fashion's reciprocal relationship to iconic beauties that represent the evolution and changing face of the feminine ideal. Featuring a brief historical overview of the phenomenon of the supermodel, the book begins in the early 20th century and continues to the present day. Dorian Leigh and Lisa Fonssagrives in the 1940s are joined in the 1950s by Dovima, Sunny Harnett, and Suzy Parker. They are followed by Jean "The Shrimp" Shrimpton and Twiggy in the 1960s and Lauren Hutton in the 1970s. The 1980s witnessed such enduring personalities as Cindy Crawford, Christy Turlington, Naomi Campbell, and Linda Evangelista, while the 1990s brought on Kate Moss, whose edgy, street-inflected style has inspired not only fashion designers, editors, stylists, and photographers, but artists such as Chuck Close and Lucien Freud. With an emphasis on styles from the 1950s onward, the book features designs from the great ready-to-wear and couture houses--Madame Gres, Christian Dior, and Balenciaga in the 1950s; Rudi Gernreich, Yves Saint Laurent, and Cardin in the 1960s; Giorgio di Sant'Angelo and Halston in the 1970s; Christian Lacroix, Versace, Comme des Garcons, and Calvin Klein in the 1980s; and Marc Jacobs, John Galliano, and Alexander McQueen in the 1990s.
The Allure of Chanel
Author: Paul Morand
Publisher: Pushkin Press
Coco Chanel invited Paul Morand to visit her in St Moritz at the end of the Second World War when he was given the opportunity to write her memoirs; his notes of their conversations were put away in a drawer and only came to light one year after Chanel's death. Through Morand's transcription of their conversations, Chanel tells us about her friendship with Misia Sert, the men in her life - Boy Capel, the Duke of Westminster, artists such as Diaghilev, her philosophy of fashion and the story behind the legendary Number 5 perfume...The memories of Chanel told in her own words provide vivid sketches and portray the strength of Coco's character, leaving us with an extraordinary insight into Chanel the woman and the woman who created Chanel.
With its rich golden hue, art deco–inspired bottle, and timeless, musky scent, Chanel No. 5 is the world’s bestselling perfume and arguably the most coveted luxury product of the twentieth century. In The Secret of Chanel No. 5, Tilar J. Mazzeo offers a fascinating account of No. 5’s creation, its rise to iconic status, and the legacy of its extraordinary success. Mazzeo delves deeply into the life of Coco Chanel, the brilliant, controversial, and steel-willed businesswoman at the heart of the fragrance. She walks the rose plantations and jasmine fields where the perfume’s life begins, and travels to 31 Rue Cambon, the center of the Chanel empire. A blend of evocative history and thoughtful research, here is a glittering account of where art and sensuality mingle with dazzling entrepreneurship and desire: Chanel No. 5.
Discoveries: Egon Schiele
Author: Jean-Louis Gaillemin
Publisher: Harry N. Abrams
Egon Schiele (18901918) was one of the most popular and influential painters to emerge from turn-of-the-century Vienna. Before his premature death at 28, he managed to be thrown in prison on a morals charge and also to create a strongly erotic body of work, both deeply expressive drawings and sublimely beautiful paintings. This enfant terrible of pre-WWI Vienna worked in the shadows of Klimt and Freud, but he found his own voice, and his own nude body was his best model. Egon Schiele delves into both his controversial sexual themes and neglected aspects of Schieles art, notably his formal experiments and his later expressionistic portraits and allegorical paintingsworks that reveal much about the importance of his short career. Egon Schiele (18901918) was one of the most popular and influential painters to emerge from turn-of-the-century Vienna. Before his premature death at 28, he managed to be thrown in prison on a morals charge and also to create a strongly erotic body of work, both deeply expressive drawings and sublimely beautiful paintings. This enfant terrible of pre-WWI Vienna worked in the shadows of Klimt and Freud, but he found his own voice, and his own nude body was his best model. Egon Schiele delves into both his controversial sexual themes and neglected aspects of Schieles art, notably his formal experiments and his later expressionistic portraits and allegorical paintingsworks that reveal much about the importance of his short career.
Author: Liz Goldwyn
Publisher: Simon and Schuster
A brilliantly imaginative, illustrated recreation of an 1890s Los Angeles pocket guide, or "Sporting Guide," to the brothels of the day. Los Angeles, 1897, When Vice Ruled The City Long before the glitz and glamour of Hollywood, Los Angeles was a city where dreamers from all over the world came to make their fortunes—where a madam named Pearl Morton entertained the most powerful politicians and entrepreneurs inside her namesake brothel. In a series of haunting, interlinked stories set in the period, author and filmmaker Liz Goldwyn re-creates a “sporting guide”—a secret diary and guidebook of the best brothels and prostitutes in the city. In this world a hushed conversation inside a velvet-lined boudoir could destroy a man, and the rustle of bushes might reveal a sordid assignation. Based on original research in the libraries and archives of Los Angeles, these fictional stories are often inspired by real historical characters—like the laudanum-addicted Cora Phillips, whose tombstone Goldwyn rediscovered, or Bartolo Ballerino, Italian immigrant slumlord of the forgotten red-light district, or thirteen-year-old Frances dreaming of life beyond the Children’s Orphan Asylum. Interspersed in these stories—and featuring over a hundred historical photos and illustrations—Goldwyn reveals the history of the period, from the rage for corsets to crushed pearl powder cosmetics and the awful cures for syphilis. Sporting Guide evokes a lost world of those on the margins of Los Angeles, of the hustlers who made it into one of the great cities of the world, and Goldwyn gives a poignant voice to the people and stories forgotten by time.
Author: Harriet Quick
Publisher: Todtri Book Pub
A stunningly illustrated account of fashion modeling through the ages, Catwalking -- with a wealth of rare photographs and graphic material -- looks at the changing roles of the fashion model over nearly eighty years, from the days of the debutante mannequins to today's supermodels and their successors. This tribute to beauty and fashion includes: -- Society ladies and couturiers -- Fashion photographers Baron De Meyer, Louise Dahl Wolfe, Man Ray and more -- The Golden Years of Haute Couture -- Modeling stars of the sixties and seventies -- Supermodels Cindy Crawford, Naomi Campbell, Yasmeen Ghauri and others From mannequins to superbabes, in front of the camera and behind the scenes, here is a spectacular celebration of eight decades of the glittering, but not always glamorous, world of the fashion model.
Set to accompany the highly anticipated exhibition at the Grand Palais, Volez, Voguez, Voyagez -- Louis Vuitton surveys the rich heritage and trajectory of the world's most recognizable luxury brand. Before its foray into the realm of luxe ready-to-wear and accessories, Louis Vuitton was known as pioneer in the field of leather goods, developing its diverse luggage line during the Industrial Revolution, a historic period which saw a ground-breaking development in the means of travel and transportation. Louis Vuitton grew to be known as the fashion house that embodied the spirit of travel and quintessentially French elegance through its array of handcrafted artisanal wares. Edited by Olivier Saillard, the distinguished French curator of the Volez, Voguez, Voyagez -- Louis Vuitton exhibition, this lavishly illustrated catalogue features new and archival photography, original design sketches from the early 1900s, past and current advertising campaigns, images of ready-to-wear and luggage for modern celebrities, and detailed close-up imagery of the exhibition items including the first trunks from 1906, the "Malles classiques" trunks, cabin luggage, instrument suitcases, traveling accessories such as trench coats, leather gloves, hat boxes, and elegant canes, delicate jewelry boxes, celebrity luggage, and much more. Split into nine themes to follow the structure of the exhibition, the book's fascinating imagery is also accompanied by exploratory texts that weave themes of traveling lifestyle. Reflecting on Louis Vuitton's celebrated past and present, Volez, Voguez, Voyagez -- Louis Vuitton is an ambitious volume that journeys through the evolution of travel and the French house's continually evolving design inspiration which continually walks the line between classic style and modernity.
Both a critical history of anthropological theory and methods and a challenging essay in the sociology of science, The Invention of Primitive Society shows how anthropologists have tried to define the original form of human society.
Author: Jeanloup Sieff, Barbara Sieff, Ira Stehmann
Publisher: Prestel Pub
This wide-ranging collection of his work captures some of Jeanloup Sieff's most famous photographs spanning a career of nearly 40 years. These nudes and fashion shots portray more than beautiful bodies draped, or not, with beautiful clothes; Sieff's personal interest in whatever lay before his camera, and his continually evolving style, render these photographs pieces of art. Whether his assignment was for Glamour, Vogue, or Harper's Bazaar; whether his subject was Yves Montand, Rudolf Nureyev, Twiggy, or Catherine Deneuve, Sieff was never afraid to take chances with location, equipment, lighting, or convention. Rounding out this exciting monograph are texts from his favorite models as well as essays by Frank Horvarth and Purple Magazine's editor Olivier Zahm.
The Modern Dance
Author: Selma Jeanne Cohen
Publisher: Wesleyan University Press
CONTRIBUTORS: Jose Limon, Anna Sokolow, Erick Hawkins, Donald McKayle, Alwin Nikolas, Pauline Koner, Paul Taylor.
Kick the TV Habit!
Author: Steven J. Bennett
Publisher: Penguin Group USA
A program for changing family television and video game habits to create a life of quality family time and active learning includes one hundred TV-free activities, a wealth of facts and statistics about TV watching, and resources for further information. Original.